Retro-Crack

1.5(23)5.9+

Trad

FA: unknown well before 2000

Photos

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Description

Climb the thin crack just left of the " Pee on Dee " bolts, remaining fiercely independent until throwing in a perfect hand jam on the left side of the roof and topping out just above the " Pee on Dee " bolt anchor. An easier variation can be done by stepping left into the chimney at the roof (5.8). I did a free ascent of this route using trad gear on 11/6/04 and named it "Retro-Crack" as a juxtapose to " Tony Bubb’s Little Stick ".

Protection

Three small cams and one small stopper to the bolt anchor of " Pee on Dee ". Using the bolt anchor is a little awkward and you may want to take some medium cams and long slings to setup your own anchor.

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