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USA/Oregon/Central Oregon/Smith Rock/(s) Monkey Face

Monkey Face

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20 climbs · Terrebonne, OR

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Photo of Monkey Face📷 vietnguyen
Photo of Monkey Face📷 vietnguyen
Photo of Monkey Face📷 inc_blue_gamefowl

Description

This prominent tower is one the best known features at Smith rock. Its asthetic beauty is enhanced by the historical ascents and world famous routes on its clean faces. Monkey face still holds some of the hardest climbs in the world as well as a plethora of classic trad and sport lines. It's most famous route, Just Do It 5.14c is still a testpiece route for aspiring hardmen/women. Other popular pastimes include making the tyrolean traverse from the main buttress to the monkey's mouth. This airy span is also often used for a spectacular high line walk.

Climbs (20)

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  • East Face★3.3(3)5.6
    Trad/Aid · FA: Kim Schmitz & Gerald Bjorkamn - summer 1964
  • Northwest Passage (Aid)★3.4(8)5.7
    Trad/Aid · FA: Jeff Thomas & Steve Moore - April 28th, 1973
  • Pioneer Route★3.5(300)5.7
    Sport/Trad/Aid · FA: Dave Bohn, Jim Fraser, Vivian Staender Jan 1960 · 6 ticks
  • West Face Variation★3.7(152)5.8
    Trad/Aid · FA: FA -Tom Bauman, Bob Ashworth 1965, FFA -Tom Bauman, Bob Ashworth 1967 · 2 ticks
  • West Face Variation Direct★3.5(139)5.8
    Trad · FA: unknown
  • Monkey Off My Back★3.7(105)5.8+
    Sport · FA: Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde February 10, 2002 · 2 ticks
  • Monkey Farce★2.7(3)5.10b
    Trad · FA: unknown
  • Rising Expectations★3.8(15)5.11+
    Trad · FA: Unknown. FFA: Chris Jones, Alan Watts, September 13, 1979
  • Monkey Space★3.6(104)5.11b
    Sport · FA: unknown
  • Astro Monkey★3.4(23)5.11d
    Trad · FA: FFA of entire route A.Watts & C. Grover, 1983
  • Moving in Stereo★2.7(3)5.11d
    Sport · FA: Kent Benesch, 1986
  • Spank the Monkey★4.0(11)5.12a
    Sport · FA: Alan Watts
  • Path of Totality★3.3(3)5.12a
    Trad · R · FA: Charlie Egan and Matt Spohn
  • The North Face★4.0(25)5.12a
    Trad · FA: Alan Watts
  • Northwest Passage (Free)★4.0(1)5.12
    Trad · FA: unknown
  • East Face Start★3.0(1)5.12c
    Trad · FA: Alan Watts 9/24/1983
  • The Backbone★4.0(8)5.13a
    Sport · FA: Alan Watts and Ron Kauk
  • Spank The Monkey (Full)★4.0(1)5.13d
    Sport · R · FA: Tommy Caldwell - 2003
  • Just Do It★4.0(2)5.14c
    FA: J.B. Tribout, 1992
  • West Face (Aid)★3.3(28)Easy 5th
    Trad/Aid · FA: Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock & Bill Lentsch - 1962